Elizabeth David , CBE (born Elizabeth Gwynne <26 December 1913 - May 22, 1992) is an English cook. In the mid-20th century he greatly influenced the revitalization of home cooking in his home country and beyond with articles and books on European cuisine and traditional British cuisine.
Born into an upper class family, David rebelled against the social norms of the day. In the 1930s he studied art in Paris, became an actress, and went with a married man with whom he sailed on a small boat to Italy, where their boat was confiscated. They reached Greece, where they were almost trapped by the German invasion in 1941, but fled to Egypt, where they parted ways. He then worked for the British government, running a library in Cairo. While there he married, but he and her husband split up soon afterwards and then divorced.
In 1946, David returned to England, where the allotment of food imposed during World War II remained in force. Disappointed by the contrast between the awful food served in England and the excellent simple food that made him accustomed to France, Greece and Egypt, he began writing magazine articles on Mediterranean cuisine. They attracted good attention, and in 1950, at the age of 36, â €
David's reputation lies in his articles and books, which are constantly reprinted. Between 1950 and 1984 he published eight books; after his death, his literary executives completed four more that he planned and did. David's influence on English cuisine extended to both domestic professionals and chefs, and the next generation of chefs and restaurant owners such as Terence Conran, Simon Hopkinson, Prue Leith, Jamie Oliver, Tom Parker Bowles and Rick Stein have recognized their importance for them. In the US, chefs and writers including Julia Child, Richard Olney, and Alice Waters have written about its influence.
Video Elizabeth David
Life and career
Initial years
David was born Elizabeth Gwynne, the second child of four children, all daughters, Rupert Sackville Gwynne and his wife, Hon Stella Gwynne, daughter of the first Viscount Ridley. The families of both parents have great wealth, Gwynnes of engineering and land speculation and Ridley from coal mining. Through these two families, David is of British, Scottish and Welsh or Irish descent and, through ancestors on his father's side, also the Netherlands and Sumatra. He and his sisters grew up at Wootton Manor in Sussex, a 17th-century nobility house with an extensive early 20th century addition by Detmar Blow. Her father, despite having a weak heart, insisted on pursuing a demanding political career, becoming Conservative MP for Eastbourne, and a young minister in the Bonar Law government. Too much work, combined with strong recreational entertainment, especially racing, horse riding, and feminization, brought his death in 1924, aged 51 years.
Stella Gwynne the widow is a dutiful mother, but her relationship with her daughters is far less than loving. Elizabeth and her sisters, Priscilla, Diana and FelicitÃÆ'Â © were sent to boarding schools. After being a pupil at the Godstowe prep school at High Wycombe, Elizabeth was sent to St Clare's Private School for Ladies, Tunbridge Wells, which she left at the age of sixteen. The girls knew nothing about cooking, which in high-class households at that time was the exclusive province of the family cook and kitchen staff.
As a teenager, David enjoys painting, and his mother thinks his talent is worth developing. In 1930 he was sent to Paris, where he studied painting privately and enrolled at the Sorbonne for courses in French civilization covering history, literature and architecture. He found that the Sorbonne research was difficult and in many ways unattractive, but they left it with a passion for French literature and fluency in the language that remained with him throughout his life. She lives with a Parisian family, a fanatic of her devotion to the table fun she portrays for comic effects in French Provincial Cooking (1960). Nevertheless, he admitted in retrospect that the experience was the most precious part of his time in Paris: "I realize in a way how the family has fulfilled their task of inculcating French culture into at least one of their British accusations.Lost is Sorbonne... What's jammed is the taste for a food type that's pretty ideally unlike anything I've ever known before. "Stella Gwynne did not want her daughter to return early to England after graduating qualification for the Sorbonne diploma, and sent her from Paris to Munich in 1931 to study German.
Actress
Upon returning to England in 1932, David was unenthusiastic about social rituals for the upper-class young women who presented at court as ambassadors with and related balls. The respectable young English people he met at the last did not interest him. Biographer David Lisa Chaney commented that with his "soft smoldering appearance and his shame protected by his cold tongue and spiked tongue" he would be a frightening prospect for the upscale young men he meets. David decided that he was not good enough as a painter and, because of his mother's displeasure, became an actress. He joined J. B. Fagan's company at Oxford Playhouse in 1933. His character included Joan Hickson, who decades later remembered showing his new colleagues how to make a cup of tea, so did not know the kitchen was David at the time.
From Oxford, David moved to the Open Air Theater at Regent's Park, London, the following year. She rented a room in a big house near the park, spent a generous 21st birthday gift to equip the kitchen, and learned to cook. The gift from his mother from The Gentle Art of Cookery by Hilda Leyel is her first cookbook. He then wrote, "I was wondering if I would ever learn to cook if I had been given Mrs. Beeton's routine to learn from, not from Mrs. Leyel's romantic recipes that were somewhat wild and interesting."
At Regent's Park, David made little professional progress. The company is distinguished, led by Nigel Playfair and Jack Hawkins, and, in leading female roles, Anna Neagle and Margaretta Scott. David is limited to bit sections. Among his colleagues at the company was an actor nine years older than him, Charles Gibson Cowan. His indifference to the social convention was very interesting to him, and he also found him sexually unbearable. Her marriage did not make any of them, and they started having an affair that surpassed her stage career. Chaney commented, "Cowan is the last outsider, he's a working class, left wing, Jewish, actor, pickpocket, bum, who lives in caves in Hastings for a while.His mother calls him 'passive worm'. sleep with whatever moves. "David's mother strongly disagreed, and tried to stop his affair. He arranged for his daughter to spend several weeks holidaying with family and friends in Malta in the first half of 1936 and in Egypt that same year, but in 1999 his biography Artemis Cooper commented that David's long absence had failed to release him from his involvement. with Cowan. During his stay in Malta, David can spend time studying from his hostess chef, Angela, who likes to continue her skills. Although he can produce a sumptuous dinner when needed, the most important lesson he teaches David is to work every day, with all the materials available, showing him how to make an old bird or a piece of fibrous meat a good dish. French, Greek, Egyptian, and Indian
After returning to London in early 1937, David admitted that he would not be successful on stage, and left behind his thoughts on a theater career. Later in the year he took up the post as a junior assistant at the fashion house Worth, where an elegant young woman from an upscale background was sought as a recruiter. He found that leniency in retail jobs was annoying, and resigned in early 1938. Over the next few months he spent vacationing in southern France and in Corsica, where he was very interested in the nature of the people he lived with and the modest advantages of their diet. After returning to London, and disappointed by life there, he joined Cowan to buy a small boat - a yawl with a machine - with the intention of sailing to Greece. They crossed the Strait in July 1939 and navigated the boat through the French canal system to the Mediterranean coast.
The outbreak of the Second World War in September 1939 halted their progress. After pausing in Marseille, they sailed to Antibes, where they stayed for more than six months, unable to get permission to leave. There David met and became deeply influenced by the old writer Norman Douglas, who he later wrote extensively. He inspired his love for the Mediterranean, encouraged his interest in good food, and taught him to "seek the best, insist, and reject all the false and second-level". Cooper described him as David's most important mentor.
David and Cowan eventually left Antibes in May 1940, sailed to Corsica and then headed for Sicily. They had reached the Strait of Messina when Italy entered the war on June 10. They are suspected of being spies and interned. After 19 days of detention in various parts of Italy, they were allowed to cross the border into Yugoslavia, which at the time remained neutral and non-combatant. They have lost almost everything they have - the precious boats, money, manuscripts, notebooks, and collection of David's recipes. With the help of the British Consul in Zagreb, they crossed over to Greece, and arrived in Athens in July 1940. At this time, David no longer loves his partner but stays with him from the necessity. Cowan found an English teaching job on the island of Syros, where David learned to cook with fresh ingredients available in the local area. When the Germans invaded Greece in April 1941, the couple managed to depart with a civilian convoy to Egypt.
Able to speak excellent and good French, David got a job at the naval enclosure in Alexandria. He was quickly rescued from the temporary accommodation of refugees, having met an old English friend who owned an "extraordinary" flat in the city and invited him to keep a house for him. She and Cowan are kinsfaced separately, and she moves into a big flat. He involves a chef, Kyriacou, a Greek refugee, whose eccentricity (sketches in the chapter on Is There Pala at Home? ) does not prevent him from producing extraordinary food: "The octopus taste is stew, dark wine sauce the rich and the aroma of mountain herbs is something that is not easily forgotten. "In 1942 he contracted an infection that affected his legs. He spent several weeks in the hospital and felt obliged to give up his job at the cod office. He then moved to Cairo, where he was asked to set up and manage the reference library for the British Ministry of Information. The library is open to everyone and much in demand by other journalists and writers. The circle of his friends in this period included Alan Moorehead, Freya Stark, Bernard Spencer, Patrick Kinross, Olivia Manning, and Lawrence Durrell. In his tiny flat in town, he hired Suleiman, a Sudanese sufferner (a housekeeper). She remembered:
Suleiman performed a small miracle with two Primus stoves and an oven that was little more than a tin box perched above them. His soufflà © was never less successful.... For three or four years I have lived primarily with a rather rustic but high-flavored vegetable dish, lentils or fresh tomatoes, delicious seasoned herbs, roasted kebabs burned on charcoal, salads with mint flavored yoghurt dressings cold, Egyptian dish fellahin from black beans with olive oil and lemon and boiled eggs - these things are not only interesting but also cheap.
Cooper commented on David's lifetime, "His pictures at the time show the classic librarian, wearing a dark cardigan over a white shirt with a sweet little collar tied to his neck: but at night, wearing an exotic tufted caftan, he's a different creature: a drink at the Hedjaki bar, eat at P'tit Coin de France, dance on the Continental rooftop and then go to Madame Badia's nightclub or the glamorous Auberge des Pyramides. "For years in Cairo, David has a number of affairs. He enjoys them as they are, but only once fell in love. It was with a young officer, Peter Laing, but the relationship ended when he was badly wounded and returned to his native Canada. Some other young men fell in love with her; one of whom was Lieutenant Colonel Anthony David (1911-1967). When he was thirty, he weighed the advantages and disadvantages of staying unmarried until the ideal husband could show up, and he was very anxious he finally accepted Tony David's marriage proposal.
The couple married in Cairo on August 30, 1944. Within a year, Tony David was sent to India. His wife followed him there in January 1946, but he found life to be the wife of a boring Raj Britania officer, a boring social life, and generally "frustrating" food. Later, he appreciated cooking, and wrote about some Indian dishes and recipes in his articles and books. In June 1946, he suffered from severe sinusitis and was told by his doctor that the condition would survive if he remained in summer in Delhi. Instead, he was advised to return to England. He did it; Cooper observes, "He has been away from England for six years, and at that time he, and England, has changed beyond recognition."
British post-war
Returning after her warm years in the Mediterranean and access to fresh ingredients, David found his home country in a gray and gray postwar period, with food rationing still valid. He found a terrible meal: "There is a flour and a water soup flavored only with pepper, bread and rissoles prone, onions and carrots dehydrated, corned beef in a hole. In London, he meets George Lassalle, his former lover from the days of Cairo, and their infidelity back on. The couple went to Ross-on-Wye in November 1946 for a week's rest, but were stranded in the city due to bad weather of the season. Frustrated by the poor food provided by the hotel, he was encouraged by Lassalle to put his thoughts on paper.
Hardly knowing what I was doing... I sat down and began to work on a terrific desire for the sun and an upset revolt against such unpleasant and unhealthy food by writing down descriptions of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine. Even to write words like apricots, olives and butter, rice and lemon, oil and almonds, produces pretense. Then I realized that in England in 1947, it was the dirty words I laid.
When her husband returned from India in 1947, David soon split from Lassalle and returned to the role of wife. With the help of Stella Gwynne, David and her husband bought a home in Chelsea, which remained her home for the rest of her life. Tony David proved ineffective in civilian life, unable to find a suitable job; he endured the debt, partly from a failed business venture. What remained of the spark in the relationship soon died, and they lived apart in 1948.
Veronica Nicholson, a friend with connections in the publishing trade, persuaded David to continue writing, in order for her to write a book. He showed some of David's work to Anne Scott-James, editor of the British edition of Harper's Bazaar, who thought it indicated a man traveling widely with an independent mind. He offered David a contract, and David's work began appearing in publications from March 1949.
David told Scott-James that he planned to publish the article as a book, and was allowed to retain copyright by the magazine. Even before all the articles have been published, he has collected them into manuscript volumes called Mediterranean Food Books ; many recipes ignore the restrictions on rationing that support authenticity, and in some cases the ingredients are not available in British stores. David handed the manuscript to a number of publishers, all of whom rejected it. One of them explains that a collection of unrelated recipes is needed to connect the text. David accepts this advice, but is aware of his experience as a writer; he makes his own brief brief and quotes many of the established writers whose views on the Mediterranean may bring more weight. He submitted a revised text to John Lehmann, a publisher more related to poetry than cooking; she accepted it and approved an advance payment of £ 100. Mediterranean Food Book was published in June 1950.
Mediterranean Food Book is illustrated by John Minton; authors including Cyril Ray and John Arlott commented that the pictures added to the attraction of the book. Martin Salisbury, professor of illustration at Cambridge School of Art, writes that "the brilliant, neo-romantic design of Minton perfectly completes the writing". David attaches great importance to book illustrations, and describes Minton's jacket design as "stunning". He was primarily taken with "a beautiful Mediterranean bay, his tables scattered with white cloth and bright fruit" and the way "jugs and jugs and wine bottles can be seen far below the road"; he considers the cover design to help book success, but is unsure of the black and white images.
This book is well received by reviewers. Elizabeth Nicholas, writing for The Sunday Times, considers David a "rare integrity expert" who "refuses... to make a dishonorable compromise with wisdom." Although John Chandos, writing in The Observer, points out that "Do not let anyone eat in London - with whatever is left behind - imagine that he eats Mediterranean food in the absence of the earth and the Mediterranean air", he completed his review with said the book "deserves to be a close friend of everyone who seeks unhindered fun in the kitchen".
The success of this book resulted in a job offer from The Sunday Times - where he paid a down payment of 60 guinea - Go , a travel magazine owned by the newspaper, and Wine and Food , the journal of the Wine and Food Society. In August 1950 David and her husband went on their final holiday along with money from a new contract, though they had trouble with the car they used for the tour and the holiday was unsuccessful. Upon his return he invited FelicitÃÆ'Â ©, his youngest sister, to move into the upper flat at his home. David is a reluctant and unskillful typist - he prefers the feeling of writing with a pen - and in return for a low rent, Felist astronomer types his article and book, and then acts as his principal investigator.
The Mediterranean Food Book was quite successful for Lehmann to commission David to write a sequel, to show rural French cuisine. This is French Country Cooking , which was written by David in October 1950. Minton was hired to illustrate the work, and David gave him detailed instructions on the type of picture; he is more pleased with them than his first job. Despite their difficult relationship, David dedicated the book to his mother. Before the book was published, David left England to stay for a short time in France. He was motivated by the desire to gain a wider knowledge of life in the French countryside, and to make the distance between him and her husband. He left London in March 1951 for MÃÆ'Â Â © nerbes, Provence. He spent three months in Provence; Although the weather was cold and wet at first, the weather soon turned warmer and he enjoyed himself so much that he considered buying a house there. In June 1951 he left MÃÆ'Â © nerbes and traveled to Capri Island to visit Norman Douglas. When he left in late August, he briefly toured the Italian Riviera for an article for Go, before returning to London.
In September, shortly after he returned, French Country Cooking was published. It's warmly reviewed by critics, though Lucie Marion, writing at The Guardian, considers that "I can not think that Mrs. David has tried to really make the many dishes she prescribes." David writes to the newspaper to make a straight note, saying that it would be "irresponsible and naughty" if he did not test it all.
Italian Italian, French, and other cuisines
Lehmann and David agree that the next book should be about Italian food; at the time, little is known in the UK about Italian cooking and interest in the country is on the rise. He received a £ 300 advance for the book. He planned to visit Italy for research, and wanted to see Douglas at Capri again, but received his news of death in February 1952, which made him very sad.
David left London in March, arriving in Rome just before the Passover. He toured the country, watching chefs at home and in restaurants and making extensive notes on regional differences in cuisine. While in Rome he met the painter Renato Guttuso; very impressed by his work, especially the surviving one, he asked if he would illustrate his book. To her surprise, she agreed and, taking into consideration the extremely low £ 60 charge, she kept her promise and produced a series of illustrations.
Arriving in London in October 1952, David began a relationship with the old flames of India, Peter Higgins, a divorced stockbroker; it was the beginning of the happiest period of his life. He spent the next months writing the book, re-creating the recipe to determine the correct size. He felt less emotionally connected to Italy than with Greece and southern France and found the writing "unusually troublesome", though "because of the recipe after the recipe came out... I realized how much I learned, and how immense this plate magnified my own. scope and enjoyment ". Italian food was published in November 1954. At that time, many of the ingredients used in recipes were still hard to come by in England. Looking back in 1963, David wrote:
In Soho but almost anywhere else, things like Italian pasta, and Parmesan cheese, olive oil, salame, and sometimes Parma ham should be owned.... With southern vegetables such as eggplant, red and green peppers, fennel, small marrow called by French courgettes and in Italian zucchini, many of the same situations apply.
Italian food was warmly received by reviewers and the public, and the first print was sold out within three weeks. The Times Literary Supplement author wrote, "More than a collection of recipes, this book is basically an easy-to-read and intelligent dissertation on Italian food and regional cuisine, and their preparation in the kitchen of England." Freya Stark, reviewing for The Observer , commented, "Mrs David... can be counted among the philanthropists of humanity." In The Sunday Times , Evelyn Waugh named Italian Food as one of the two books that gave her the most pleasure in 1954.
By the time he finished Italian Food, Lehmann's publishing company had been shut down by his parent company, and David found himself under contract for Macdonald, another trail in the same group. He strongly disliked the company and wrote the most unattractive portrait of the 1985 article. Disagreeing with his approach to the books his company took, his agent, Paul Scott, persuaded Macdonald to abandon their choice in the next book. David signed instead of the Press Museum publisher for the next book, Summer Cooking, published in 1955.
Summer Cooking is illustrated by David's friend, artist Adrian Daintrey. She will visit her at home and sketch in the kitchen while cooking lunch for both of them. Unconstrained by the geographical agenda of his first three books, David writes about food from England, India, Mauritius, Russia, Spain and Turkey, as well as France, Italy and Greece. This book reflects his strong belief in seasonal foods; He loves "the pleasure of rediscovering vegetables every season" and thinks "a bit boring to eat the same food all year". He says that the goal is to put:
emphasis on two increasingly neglected aspects of cuisine: the suitability of certain foods for a certain time of the year, and the pleasure of eating seasonal vegetables, fruits, poultry, meat or fish, because it is the best, the most expensive and the cheapest.
Immediately after the publication of Summer Cooking , David was kept away from his regular columns in Harper ' by Vogue magazine, which offers more money and more prominent - a central page filled with columns keep following, and full page photos. The new contract means he also writes for Vogue ' s sister magazine House & amp; Park . Audrey Withers, editor of Vogue, wants David to write more personal columns than he does for Harper's, and pays him £ 20 per month for groceries and from time to time time. to the time of Ã, Â £ 100 for a research trip to France.
David visited several areas of France, completing his research for the next book,
The new book review is the same as its predecessor. The Additional Literary Times writes, â € Å" Cooking the French Province needs to be read rather than being referred to quickly. It discusses widely about the types and origins of popular cuisine in various French Territories, as well as the culinary terms, herbs and kitchen utensils used in France, but those who can provide extra time for this book will be well paid by plates such as La Bourride de Charles BÃÆ' Â © rot and Cassoulet ColombiÃÆ'Â © . " The Observer says it's hard to think of a house that can be done without a book and calls David" a very special kind of genius. "
French Provincial Cuisine is dedicated to Peter Higgins, still his lover. David's husband who has lived in Spain since 1953 and, embarrassed by his wife, is mentioned in a divorce case reported in the gossip column of The Daily Express . In an interview published in the newspaper, Tony calls David "my ex-wife"; he filed for divorce, and the process was completed in 1960.
1960s
In 1960 David stopped writing for The Sunday Times because he was unhappy about editorial interference with his copy; Soon after that he also left Vogue because the magazine's change of direction did not match the column style. She joins the weekly publication of The Spectator , Sunday Dispatch and The Sunday Telegraph . His books now reach the broad public, which has been reprinted in novels by the mass market publisher Penguin Books, where they sold over one million copies between 1955 and 1985. His work has also had an impact on British food culture: historian Peter Clarke considers that " The seminal influence of Elizabeth David (1960), with its enormous sales as a Penguin novel, deserves historical recognition. " Cooper considers that "David's professional career is at its peak He is hailed not only as the UK's leading writer on food and cuisine, but as a woman who has changed the habits of eating middle-class English."
David's personal life was not quite right. In April 1963, his affair with Higgins ended when he remarried. For one period he drank too much brandy and overuse of sleeping pills. Perhaps as a result of these factors and overworked, in 1963, when he was 49 years old, David had a cerebral hemorrhage. He keeps the news of the event in his circle of friends - no publication editor works for him who is aware of his collapse - because he does not want his reputation as a hard worker to be broken. He recovers, but his confidence is shaken and his sense of flavor is temporarily affected; for a period he can not taste salt, or salt effects on what he cooks, but his sense of smell about the smell of fried onions has been refined so it is not fun for him.
In November 1965, along with four business partners, David opened Elizabeth David Ltd, a store that sells kitchen utensils, at 46 Bourne Street, Pimlico. The partners were encouraged by the closure of professional kitchen appliances stores in Soho during the owners' retirement, and the success of the recent Terence Conran Habitat stores, which were sold among many other imported kitchen appliances that turned out to be a market. Among his customers are Albert and Michel Roux, who shop there to buy the equipment they should buy in France.
David, who chose the stock, was uncompromising in choosing his merchandise; Although there are many kitchen utensils, this store does not provide wall-mounted knife sharpener or garlic presses. David wrote an article entitled "Tap Garlic Really Useless", refused to sell it, and advised customers who asked them to go elsewhere. Not available elsewhere, by contrast, is a book by David printed exclusively for stores. Some of them are then incorporated into the collection of essays and articles, Omelets and Wine Glass and Is There a Pala at Home? The store is described in The Observer as:
... really simple. The pyramid of the French coffee mug and the British bronze pans pan stood at the window. The iron shelves store prints and cutters of every description, pottery pots, bowls and plates without glaze and without glaze in traditional colors, plain pots and pans in thick aluminum, cast iron, vitreous enamel and fireproof porcelain, in classical form and rows of knives, spoons, and neat forks of the chef.
David reduced his writing commitments to concentrate on managing stores, but contributed articles to magazines, and began to focus more on English cuisine. He still includes many recipes but more and more writes about place - market, auberges, farms - and people, including profiles of famous chefs and gourmets like Marcel Boulestin and ÃÆ' â € ° douard de Pomiane. In his later articles, he declared very adhering to various subjects; he pulled out the word "crunchy", demanding to know what he was saying that "crunchy" was not; he admitted the inability to fill any wine glasses until empty; he insisted on the traditional form of "Welsh rabbits" rather than the modern invention of the "Welsh rarebit"; he poured derision on the standards of the
While running the shop, David wrote another complete book, Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the Kitchen of England (1970). This is his first book in a decade and the first of a series projected on English cuisine is called "Cooking English, Ancient and Modern". He has decided to concentrate on the subject while recovering from his brain hemorrhage in 1963. The book is a departure from his earlier works and contains more food history about what he calls "English preoccupation with spices and aromas, fruits, flavors, source and spice orientation, near and far ".
Next year
Elizabeth David Ltd has never been more than profitable, but David will not lower its standards for commercial gain. A new manager was brought in to run the store and David struggled against many of his changes, but he was always in a minority against his fellow directors. The tension of disputes over company policy - and the death of his sister Diana in March 1971 and her mother in June 1973 - contributed to health problems and she suffered chronic fatigue and swollen leg swelling. Gradually his business partners discovered that his commercial approach was unsustainable, and in 1973 he left the company. To her annoyance, the shop continued to trade under her name, although she tried periodically to persuade her former colleagues to change it.
David's second book on British food is English Bread and Yeast Cookery , which he spends five years researching and writing. This work covers the history of baking in the UK and the examination of each ingredient used. He is angry with the standard bread in England and writes:
What is really worrying is the chaos caused by milling and baking problems with the very expensive grains that go into their wheat. Put simply it's wasted on a country that cares little about the quality of its bread that has made itself mesmerized to buy the equivalent of eight and a quarter million large white factory-made breads every day of the year.
In 1977 David was severely injured in a car accident - maintaining a broken left elbow and right wrist, broken knee cap and broken jaw - from which he took a long time to recover. When he was in the hospital, Bread of English and Cookery Yeast was published. His scholars won high praise, and Jane Grigson, writing in The Additional Literary Times, suggested that a copy of the book should be given to every married couple, while Hilary Spurling, reviewing for The Observer. , thinking that not only was "the spicy indictment of the British bakery industry", but which was done with "order, authority, phenomenal sphere and meticulous attention to detail".
Some of David's research for English Bread and Yeast Cookies was done with Jill Norman, his friend and publisher. The couple decided that they should produce two more books: Ice and Ice and David's early journalism collection. Like his book on bread, the space for Ice and Ice grew more and more David examined the subject. The compilation of existing essays and press articles took less time, and in 1984 an Omelette and a Glass of Wine was published, edited by Norman who was David's literary executor and further edited David's work after the author's death.
The death in 1986 of his sister Felicide, who lived upstairs for thirty years, was a blow to David. She started suffering from depression and went to the doctor after suffering chest pain; he diagnosed tuberculosis and he was hospitalized. After an uncomfortable three-month stay in the hospital, where prescribed medicines have side effects that affect the clarity of his thinking, his friend, wine importer and author Gerald Asher, arranges for him to stay with him in California. to recover.
David made several visits to California, which he really enjoyed, but his health began to fail. Because his leg has been troublesome for some time, he suffered a falling succession which resulted in some spells in the hospital. She becomes increasingly closed but, despite spending time in bed at home, she continues to work on Ice and Ice. He realizes that he will not be able to finish the job, and asks Norman to finish it for him. It was published in 1994, under the title Harvest of the Cold Months .
In May 1992, David suffered a stroke followed two days later by another, which was fatal; he died at his home in Chelsea on May 22, 1992, at the age of 78 years. She was buried on May 28 at the St. Peter ad Vincula, Folkington family church. In September, a funeral was held at St Martin-in-the-Fields, London, followed by a picnic memorial at the Institute of Contemporary Arts. In February 1994, David's belongings were put up for auction. Many of those present - and those who bargain - are David's fans, not professional dealers. Prue Leith paid Ã, £ 1,100 for David's old kitchen table because it was "where he cooks omelets and writes most of his books". Total auction receipts are three times the expected value.
Maps Elizabeth David
Books
From 1950 onwards, David was famous for his magazine articles and, in the 1960s and '70s, for his kitchen shop, but his reputation stopped and still relied on his books. The first five, published between 1950 and 1960, include continental European cuisine and beyond. In the 1970s David wrote two books on English cooking. The last of his books published in his life is a collection of essays and articles that have been printed before. From the extensive notes and archives left by the author, the executive, Jill Norman, edited and completed four more books that David had planned. The six other books published since the author's death are compilations taken from his already existing works.
At the advice of his publisher, David built his early books to intersperse recipes with relevant quotes from travel writing and painting scenes by previous writers, and, as his belief and reputation grew, by himself. A Mediterranean Food Book (1950) refers to nine authors, from Henry James to ThÃÆ' Â © ophile Gautier, among the eleven recipe sections. Reviewer commented that David's books have literary rewards as well as practical instruction.
Some critics, used for more prescriptive cook writers, think his approach assumes too much knowledge on the reader's part. In his view, "The ideal cook writer is the one who makes his readers want to cook and tell them how it is done: he must leave something, maybe not too much, but a little, unspoken: one should make their own discoveries, use their intelligence "In The New York Times Craig Claiborne wrote admiration to David, but said that because he thinks his readers already know the basics of cooking, he will be" rewarded more by people with serious attention to food than by those with a casual interest ". Writer Julian Barnes commented that as an amateur cook he found a brief instruction from David that intimidated: a recipe in Italian Food he wrote, "ED's first sentence reads like this: 'Melt 1 ½ lbs (675 g)' Chop and tomato skin in olive oil... " Melt? Tomato melt? ... Could Elizabeth Elizabeth be too good as a writer to be a food writer?" A chef later, Tom Parker Bowles, observing, "You do not turn to Elizabeth David for caregiver instruction, step by step, or the right amount and time. He thinks you know the basics, and is a writer who offers inspiration, and incredible and dedicated prose. The recipe is timeless, and all his books are excellent for reference (and tirelessly researched) and beautiful reading. "
Eight books and eight books by David published in his lifetime include French food; Italy; the rest of the Mediterranean and so on, to Asia; and English.
French
Two famous books of David focus on French cuisine: French Country Cuisine (1951) and
Good cooking is honest, sincere and simple, and with this I do not mean to say that you will find this, or there is another book, the secret to producing first class food in minutes without problems. Good food is always a problem and its preparation should be regarded as a labor of love, and this book is aimed at those who truly and positively enjoy the labor involved in entertaining their friends and giving their families first class food.
Despite not ignoring complicated dishes - he devoted six pages to selecting ingredients for and cooking pot-au-feu or liÃÆ'¨vre à la la Royale (a kind of lombok) - David considers simple everyday cooking because in some cases more demands , and provides many recipes for "the kind of food that is often eaten in frugal French households, and it's very good".
David emphasizes the importance of careful and knowledgeable shopping cooking for ingredients. He wrote chapters on French markets such as Cavaillon, Yvetot, Montpellier, Martigues, and Valence. Despite the widespread perception that his view of food is essentially the Mediterranean, French Provincial Cooking , by far the longest book to date, examines French cuisine from Normandy and ÃÆ'Žle-de-France to Alsace, Burgundy, Loire, Bordeaux and Basque Country, as well as south. Looking at the whole field of cookery books, Jane Grigson regards this as "the best and most exciting of them all".
Italy
Unlike his two predecessors, Mediterranean Food and French Country Cooking , David Italian Food (1954) was a bit interesting from whatever he had written. He spent several months in Italy researching before starting to work on manuscripts. With two successful books published, David feels less need for extracts from previous authors to support prose, and interspersed recipes with his essays and introductions to various parts. The book begins with the chapter on "Italian store cabinets," which gave British chefs, who were generally unfamiliar with most Italian cooking and methods, insights on Italian ingredients, spices, cans, bottles or dried staples including fish teri, tuna, funghi , prosciutto, and chickpeas, and Italian staples such as garlic and olive oil are both rare seen in England in the early 1950s. The rest of this book follows the basic pattern of previous work, with chapters on soup, fish, meat, vegetables and sweets, with additional additional subjects relevant to Italian food, asciuta pasta, ravioli and gnocchi, rice and Italian wine..
In addition to those in Italian food, there are many Italian recipes and descriptions of the land and people in other David's works. The first recipe in his first book, Mediterranean Food - supe au Pistou - comes from Genoa. Also in the book are recipes for bocconcini, osso bucco, and some Italian pasta and chicken dishes. Among the recipes in Cooking Summer are peperonata (pimentos or sweet peppers cooked with tomatoes in olive oil and butter) which are reprinted as a title article in later choices of David's work. In the Omelette and a Glass of Wine , David prints Italian recipes including soups and omelettes made with hops (zuppa di lupolli and frittata con i loertis). Also in the book is an important essay about the people and place of Italy. Is There a Pala at Home? includes a six page article about vegetable dishes from Mantua, and another with the same lengths on pizza variations in Italy and beyond.
Other Mediterranean lands and so on
When David's first book, Mediterranean Food, was published in 1950 the British public still experienced food rations after the Second World War. His awakening will be overwhelming and the daily superiority of Mediterranean food is revelatory, and although he did not reach the wider public until a cheap-edged book edition came out in the mid-1950s, reviewers immediately saw his importance.
In the introduction Mediterranean Food David sets the basic premise: "Cooking the Mediterranean coast, which is endowed with all the natural resources, colors and flavors of the South, is a brilliant and brilliant combination of tradition. A shiny Latin genius from a kitchen pot. This is also an honest cook; no fancy Grande cuisine from International Palace Hotel. "He acknowledges, however, that the Mediterranean food culture is not exclusively Latin, and blooms on the" Greek mainland and the heavily disputed territories of Syria, Lebanon, Constantinople and Smyrna. "He describes the recurring elements in food throughout the country- this country as:
... oil, saffron, garlic, sharp local wine; aromatic rosemary perfume, wild marjoram and dried basil in the kitchen; the brilliance of market stalls piled high with sandalwood, eggplant, tomatoes, olives, melons, figs and limes; large piles of shimmering fish, silver, vermilion or striped tiger, and long needle fish whose bones mysteriously turn green.
In his other books, David provides recipes from all over the Mediterranean, including Spanish gazpacho and tortillas; dolmÃÆ'¡dÃÆ' Â © s, and eggs with skordalia from Greece, boiled eggplant, yoghurt soup, and carrot stew and rice from Turkey; and a Syrian chicken dish with almonds and cream. From far farther he inserted a Mauritian shrimp chutney; soup of cucumber and beet from Russia; Persian maqlub of eggplant, rice, and mutton; Sikh kebab and salt masala from India; and Armenian pizza, claimed to be older than the Italian version.
In a 2012 survey for the Australasian Association of Languages ​​and Literature Universities, Carody Culver writes, "This is the language of David, especially the use of his most powerful descriptions of the quality of narration and literature of Mediterranean Food, his description, anecdotes, and literary quotes turn their recipes into stories of experience and memory.... Materials and dishes are not only given as part of the list of instructions, but are represented as part of a particular culture. "
English
Seasonings, Salt and Aromatics in English Kitchen (1970) and English Bread and Yeast Cuisine (1977) include some English dishes from outside England, such as Scottish arbroath smokies and bannocks; and Welsh salt ducks and bara brith. David, like many generations and classes, uses the terms "English" and "English" to refer to the rest of England.
Some authors believe David ignores cooking his own country for the sake of Mediterranean cuisine. In the humorous magazine Punch , Humphrey Lyttelton states that he prefers "inaccessible and often ingested saucissons " to "beautiful Cumberland sausage". Recently a British journalist, Tim Hayward, accused him of being "romantic-eyed romantic," too focused on France and the Mediterranean. Chaney commented that when Spice, Salt and Aromatics in English Kitchen was published in 1970, some of David's most passionate admirers were shocked to find him praising the British culinary tradition of "at its best... rich and useful as it is in the Mediterranean ". Cooper writes that although the focus shift from French and Mediterranean food to English shocked the public, David has been moving there for some time.
David treats his English topics in great detail: Spices, Salt and Aromatics in English Kitchen is longer than Mediterranean Food , French Country Cuisine or < Summer Cooking . He intends to be first in a series of three or even five books on English cuisine: "It depends how much time I have... Later volumes will deal with bread, yeast, cakes, cream and cheese and egg dishes, and meat and game ". They were never written, except for English Bread and Yeast Cookery , which are almost 100 pages longest of all David's works.
David consciously follows in the footsteps of Hilda Leyel and Dorothy Hartley in researching English ingredients and dishes. Like them, he looks back to regional history to discover what he sees as "a deep-rooted cultural tradition" before the "Industrial Revolution". He does not romanticize British culinary past: "Agricultural workers and factories, craftsmen and administrative workers, still live on a very limited diet... their cooking facilities are very primitive and their equipment is so minimal that only the most basic forms of cooking can be tried ". But the constant benchmarks are honest materials and uncomplicated cooking. He cursed - and explained the artificial, artificial alternatives, the famous "Chorleywood bread", and "all the synthetic help for flavoring... Nobody can ever figure out why the English think a glass of wine is added to the soup or stew as a waste reckless and at the same time spending pounds on bottle sauce, gravy powder, soup cubes, tomato sauce, and artificial flavorings ".
Both English books are in two parts. The first part is history, putting the subject into context for the modern reader. In Spice, Salt and Aromatics David writes about the herbs and spices and spices that began to be used in the kitchen of England during the previous centuries, and sketched their adoption history from Asia and the continent Europe. The Additional Literary Times calls this part of the book "as difficult to put as a good thriller". David follows the same path in English Bread and Yeast Cookery ; reviewing the book Hilary Spurling writes that it contains "almost every history of development since the plants and quarks of the Stone Age". The second part, longer, than two books containing recipes and descriptions.
Collection of essays and articles
Although David has drawn many magazine articles for material in his earlier books, Omelette and Glass of Wine (1984) is the first direct anthology of his work. Compiled with the help of Jill Norman, it consists of David's choice of essays and articles published since 1949.
The article from which this book takes its title is an essay on "the almost primitive and basic food that comes with the words: 'Let's eat an omelette and a glass of wine. ' " Among other subjects are profiles people including Norman Douglas, Marcel Boulestin, Mrs. Beeton, and "A gourmet in Edwardian London", Colonel Nathaniel Newnham-Davis. Sections are devoted to the description of the markets of French country towns, and the humble restaurants and hotels of France. There are articles on lemon, potted meat, mayonnaise, pizza, silabub, truffles, and Spanish and Moroccan cuisine. For most articles, David provides an introduction or an afternote, or both.
David intends to publish such a second volume, and eight years after the author's death, Norman, his literary executor, issues a sequel, Is There a Pala at Home? (2000). Like its predecessor, it was taken from magazine articles, essays and other earlier writings, of which Norman added an article written by David in the 1980s. The first part of the book is a short autobiographical piece, a scarcity from David, who maintains his privacy carefully. David's interest in the historical aspects of cuisine is given the scope in the essay on the history of Oxo and Bovril, Alexis Soyer and potatoes. Articles devoted to household cooks include "Do not Despair on Rice", "Making Ice Cream", and another one expressed his famous view: "Pressing Garlic is completely useless". The New York Times calls the book â € Å"It is very interesting, really absorb... This is a pretty good book to eat - and, in a way, you can.â €
Booklet
David wrote eight books on individual topics. The first two, Wine Consumption in Fine Cooking (1950) and Wine Consumption in Italian Cuisine (1952), were commissioned and published by Saccone and Speed ​​Winners. David reused the first as a chapter in French Country Cooking .
For his kitchen utensils, David wrote Dry, Aromatic, and Seasoned Herbs (1967); English Potted Meats and Fish Pastes (1968); English toast (1969); Silabrag and Fruit Fruit (1969), and Green Pepper Berries (1972). Some content was taken from her previously published magazine articles, and some were reused and expanded in her later books.
David's last book is Cooking with Le Creuset (1989) written for French manufacturer Le Creuset cookware.
Posthumous publication
Besides Is There a Pala at Home? three further books planned by David were completed and edited by Norman after the author died.
Harvest of the Cold Months (1994) was given a subtitle "The social history of ice and ice". David has been working intermittently for several years before his last illness. This book traces the history of ice in medieval European cuisine, when it must be brought from the mountains and stored in an ice house. The Independent's reviewer describes it as "not a cookbook but an amazing achievement from scholarship detective... luxurious and grand". Reviewing the book in The Times, Nigella Lawson writes that although it deserves a place on the shelves of anyone who cares about food, it reveals the writer's reduced energy, and "has no habit, high-souled, if grumpy, easy to read ".
South Wind Through the Kitchen (1997) is the completion of one of the projects of David's recent years in which he worked with Norman: a collection of the best volumes of his extensive writings. Norman invites David's chef, writer, and friends to choose their favorites from his articles and recipes. Many contributors, such as chef Simon Hopkinson, contribute to the introduction or cover for the pieces they choose. Extracts and recipes are taken from all of David's books published in 1996. There are over 200 recipes, organized in the usual way with sections on courses and ingredients - eggs and cheese, fish and shellfish, meat, poultry and game, vegetables, pasta , nuts and seeds, sauces, sweet dishes and cakes, preserves, and breads - punctuated, as in David's earlier works, with articles and essays. The title of this book comes from an essay published in 1964 and reprinted in Omelette and Wine Glass , and is a reference to South Wind , the most famous novel by mentor David Norman Douglas.
The last book planned by David is Elizabeth David's Christmas (2003). He and Norman had been discussing such a book as early as the 1970s, but working on another project was blocking it. After David's death, Norman discovered as he sorted through David's papers and compiled a lot more material about the Christmas theme than anyone else realized. Christmas recipes David often asked to form the core of this book. Together with some Christmas recipes from Mediterranean Food , French Provincial Cooking , and Spices, Salt and Aromatics in English Kitchen , and revised articles are published in in previous years in magazines, they changed to 214 pages. The chapters cover the social and historical aspects of Christmas, first courses and cold meats, soups, poultry and games, meat, vegetables and salads, sauces, pickles and chutneys, and desserts, cakes and drinks. This book reprints one of David's most quoted phrases, first printed in Vogue in 1959, and included Is there a Pala at Home in 2000: "If I have my way - and I do not know - my Christmas day eating and drinking will consist of an omelet and cold ham and a delicious bottle of wine at lunch, and a smoked salmon sandwich with a glass of champagne on a tray on the bed at night.
Between 1995 and 2011 Penguin Books published four paperback selections from David's books: I'll be with you in Squeezing of a Lemon (1995), Peperonata and Other Italian Dishes (1996 ), Of Pageants and Picnics (2005), and A Taste of the Sun (2011). The next two hardback choices from David's writings were published, with Norman as the editor. At Elizabeth David's Table (2010) was published to mark the 60th anniversary of David's first book. With contributions from some of England's top chefs including Hopkinson, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Rose Gray and Jamie Oliver, this consists of recipes and essays from David's previously published work. There are twelve chapters, which include a variety of dinner courses from soup to dessert, and other topics like grilling, "fast and fresh" cooking, and David's description of the French and Italian markets. Elizabeth David on Vegetables (2013) drawn mainly from Mediterranean Food, Italian Food, French Provincial Cuisine and Omelette and Wine Glass . There are several parts of the soup; small plates; salad; Sort of spaghetti; gnocchi and polenta; Rice; beans and nuts; main course; bread; and desserts.
Awards and honor
David won the Writer Glenfiddich of the Year award in 1978 for English Bread and Yeast Cookery . He was also awarded honorary doctorate by the University of Essex and Bristol, and the award from Chevalier de l'Ordre du MÃÆ'Â © rite Agricole. In 1976 he was appointed as a British Government Order (OBE), and was promoted to Commander of the Order (CBE) in 1986. However, his most honored honor, being a Fellow of the Royal Society. Literature in 1982 in recognition of his skill as a writer.
In 2012, to mark Jubilee Berlian Elizabeth II, David dipil
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